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Reader Needs Help With Forlorn Lawn
By Steve Jones
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QUESTION: "My husband and I ripped up our yard a year ago, put in a sprinkler system and put down sod. It looked great for a few months and then in August we went away for a week and didn't water the grass. When we returned, our yard looked fried. I must say that we were not the most diligent about watering except for the first month or so after putting the sod down.
"Nor were we great about cutting the grass. It got pretty high at times so that when we would cut it, it looked brown after the mowing. So here we are a year later with a yard that looks worse than last year. I read your article about seeding this time of year and realize that we should have attempted to fix it last fall. Is there anyway to salvage the sod now or do we need to start over?
"I should tell you we have quite a few oak trees in our yard but it still gets tons of sun. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated." - Laura
ANSWER: Frequent watering, such as daily to every other day, doesn't grow a deep rooted lawn. Plants, including grass, need to stress a bit to develop deeper growing roots for survival, which is probably why it looked bad when you returned from your trip. Once a week or every 4-5 days is certainly enough to water. The blade setting on you mower should cut no shorter than 3 inches. Many people set their mower blades at 2 inches and less which scalps a lawn and doesn't give any shading to the grass to protect it from the heat.
Even sod needs to be reseeded seasonally (at least annually) to keep it thick. You aren't too late to seed over your lawn. Use a rake to scratch up the soil in any bald areas and then reseed. If you don't have rainfall within following few days, you will definitely want to run the sprinklers on it and then continue watering every 4-5 days or so. There may always be problems with the grass near the oak trees, but that is normal. If it continues to look bad, you may want to think about groundcovers or other alternatives. Good luck!
QUESTION: "Hi, we are looking to landscape our yard this year. We have a half-acre of land and are looking to plant some fast growing trees and evergreens. Do you have any suggestions? We would like trees that have beautiful fall color." - M. Wood
ANSWER: There are many factors that enter into landscaping. Overhead utilities, existing plants, and the color of the house's exterior (red brick, yellow vinyl, etc) are a few things that can affect a selection of taller growing trees. Most of the extremely fast growing trees will still grow quite tall and wide as well, even though some are short lived.
On a half-acre lot you may want to consider trees that are tall and slim such as slender silhouette sweetgum, first lady cherry, Japanese red maples, bald cypress peve minaret, lavender twist red bud, weeping higan, crape myrtles, sourwood, kwanzan cherry, emerald green arborvitae, jane magnolia, and degroots spire arborvitae.
Some of these plants are faster growing, but those like the arborvitae are only moderate growers. Select trees that compliment your house color. A white blooming tree in front of a white or cream vinyl will not be as striking as if you had a dark red brick home. Lots of shrubs and perennials with seasonal color can also add interest to your landscape.
QUESTION: "I am looking for a small shrub to make a thick row around a driveway to act as a border. I'm thinking maybe a boxwood might work. I want it to be thick but not too high, maybe 18" or so, in half sun and half shade, zone 9. Do you have any suggestions?" - Emmett Robichaux
ANSWER: Although boxwood is a nice plant, it is very slow growing. Here are a couple of other suggestions you could think about as alternatives: Crimson pygmy barberry, Forever Pink hydrangea, or perhaps a flowering quince. For an unusual option, consider bamboo.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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Turn so-so soil into loam and plants will thrive
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Spring is here at last and landscape lovers are happily getting soil under
their fingernails as they get back to planting their new shrubs and trees.
ItÆs an enjoyable and creative activity that can involve the entire family.
Watching plants grow and bloom as a result of your horticultural endeavors
is highly satisfying. But seeing trees and shrubs wither and die can be
very depressing!
You canÆt absolutely guarantee success, but you can put the odds in your
favor by paying close attention to these two important factors: Good soil
and correct planting procedures.
If you are fortunate enough to be blessed with perfect loamy soil, give
thanks to St. Fiacre, the patron saint of gardeners. Fiacre was a monk who
lived in Ireland about fourteen hundred years ago and was renowned for his
beautiful gardens and for developing herbs with healing properties.
How well do you know your soil? There are three basic types of soil: sand,
silt and clay.
Sandy soil has fairly large particles that donÆt stick together. Water, air
and plant roots easily penetrate sandy soil.
Silt, as you might guess from the name, is smooth and slippery. It can hold
water better than sand when wet.
Clay consists of very small particles than bind together easily. Squeeze a
handful of predominantly clay soil when wet, and you can mold it into a
clump. Water, air and plant roots have trouble penetrating clay. Dry clay
can be as hard as a rock!
The ideal soil contains moderate amounts of all three elements and can then
be described as ôloam.ö As a rule of (green) thumb, loam has less than 52%
sand, between 28% and 52% silt and 7% to 27% clay. Get your soil to that
kind of ratio and youÆre definitely putting the odds in your favor!
ItÆs not easy to determine the state of your soil just by looking at it.
Rather than waste money by trying to grow plants that always seem to die or
look sickly, invest a little time and money in a soil test. There are DIY
test kits on the market or you can get a professional soil evaluation at a
very reasonable price. If youÆd like specific advice about soil testing,
send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
As you know, IÆm a strong advocate of organic solutions to garden and
landscape problems, and that is definitely the case when it comes to soil!
I believe that chemical fertilizers, aside from being potentially toxic, are
short-term plant boosters that can leave behind a salty residue in the soil,
preventing some plants from absorbing necessary nutrients.
So I encourage you to seek out organic solutions when you need to improve
the quality of your soil. There are a number of organic products on the
market and IÆve been getting good results from some of them. If you need
some more information on organic solutions or shopping information, send me
an e-mail and IÆll send you a personal reply.
Next time, IÆll discuss some planting tips that will help you get the best
results from bareroot, balled-and-burlapped and container-grown plants.
Meanwhile, a comment from a reader...
Jeff Johnson from Brooksville, FL, sent me an e-mail after reading a recent
column about growing a variety of bamboo named Fargesia robusta. Jeff said
that, several years ago, he had tried growing Fargesia but the plants died,
presumably due to the hot, humid summers in his area.
Individual results can vary, of course, and Fargesia robusta ("Green
Screen") does well in Zones 5 - 9 on the USDA Plant Hardiness map, something
I didn't specify in that column. Brooksville, FL, is in Zone 10, and
excessively hot and humid conditions such as you'll find around Miami are
not recommended for Fargesia. Thanks for your comment, Jeff.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and
landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional
information, or to subscribe to SteveÆs free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go
to www.landsteward.org
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Correct Planting Gives Shrubs and Trees a Head Start
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Of course, YOU'D never say something like that. But maybe you've heard someone else say it, though not in so many words.
The fact is that young trees and shrubs are at their most vulnerable when you are planting them in your landscape. You need to devote some TLC to this stage of their life, and the particular TLC you apply will depend quite largely on how you receive your new "babies:" bare root, balled and burlapped or container-grown.
The other major concern with new plants is soil quality, which was addressed in the previous Plant Man column. If you missed that one or need to refer back to it, you can find it archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the title: "Turn so-so soil into loam and plants will thrive."
Today, we'll take a quick look at the three different planting methods. Adopt the correct method for planting and you will definitely put the odds for success in your favor!
Bare root As a general rule, bare root plants are available only in the spring. When you receive bare root plants, they should be loosely wrapped in some kind of moist material. Keep them away from heat and direct sunlight and keep them slightly moist (but not drenched) until you're ready to plant.
Dig a hole large enough so the plant's roots have room to spread out and don't curve back up the sides of the hole. Hold the plant so the crown is a couple of inches above the level of the surrounding bed or lawn (to allow for settlement) then add backfill and water carefully and slowly. Resist the temptation to "tamp" the backfill!
Balled and burlapped Remember the different soil types from the previous column? Here's where knowing your soil type becomes particularly important. If you have sandy soil, dig a hole no deeper than the root ball. However, if the soil is predominantly clay, dig the hole about 2 or 3 inches shallower than the ball.
The hole needs to be saucer-shaped and shallower than the bare root hole. In sandy soil, make the hole about 3 times wider than the root ball; for clay soil the hole should be even wider. Remove all the netting and other wrapping materials from the top and sides of the root ball. You can leave all that stuff on the bottom if you wish. If it came in a wire basket, place it in the hole and then remove the top 2/3 of the wire. Be sure there is no twine around the trunk or across the top of the root ball. Back fill into the hole and water slowly. Thereafter, water when the soil feels dry at a depth of 4 to 6 inches and avoid frequent, light watering!
Container grown Container-grown stock has usually been growing for one or two seasons before you receive it, which gives you the advantage of a head-start on growth in many cases. You will need to remove the container before planting, but be sure to dig your hole before removing the container!
When you have removed the plant from its container, lay it on its side close to the hole. Cut or gently separate and straighten any "circling" roots to prevent them girdling the plant as it grows. Place the plant in the hole, backfill and water. You can gently tamp the soil if necessary.
This is really just a brief overview to give you an idea of the different planting requirements of your new plants. They are a real investment so take the time to learn the best way to get them started on the right course. Send me an e-mail if you need advice about planting a specific tree or shrub.
I recommend that you visit the following Web sites that contain excellent and complete planting information and helpful diagrams:
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/trees/h531w.htm
http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/trees/430-295/430-295.html
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/GARDEN/07417.html
To make it easier, I have included direct links that you can click on when you find this column at my Web site.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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Small Lots Need Trees That Fit Their Scale
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To a landscaper, a small lot can be more challenging than a large one. Trees that have a wide canopy look splendid in a park-like setting, but in more modest surroundings, the scale is all wrong.
A case in point is the issue raised by a reader in this recent e-mail:
QUESTION: "We have a small townhouse back yard and I was wondering if you had any suggestions on an evergreen to plant by the fence which has good vertical growth for screening while not overwhelming the back yard with horizontal expansion." - John Brauer
ANSWER: You have quite a few choices! Any kind of arborvitae would do, but the one I would recommend is known as the Degroots Spire. It can grow to height of 20 ft with a spread of only 3 feet. Another option, if time to grow is not an issue, could be the Hatfield Yew. It can reach a height of 30 ft with a spread of up to 20 ft. However, it adapts well to being pruned to a narrower shape. If you would consider something a little more exotic, how about a variety of bamboo called Green Screen? It is non invasive, clumping and fast growing and can grow as tall as 15 ft or more.
QUESTION: "I had a large hibiscus purchased from a florist that sat in a west facing window. The non-stop blossoms were show-stoppers and I managed to harvest 3 seeds from the plant. When I moved to the US from Canada I could not bring my plants but was thrilled when one of the hibiscus seeds germinated and grew. Now, 10 years later this plant has never bloomed despite my best efforts. I feed, prune and place it outdoors for the summer. What can I do to make this plant bloom?" - Lynda McLean
ANSWER: There is a trick I use with wisteria that you might want to try. Around November, when they go dormant, I dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water and saturate the soil at the base of the plant. Then I do the same thing again in spring just before they start to leaf out. Garden centers often carry products that claim to aid blooming, so that might be worth investigating, too.
One other thing comes to mind. Since you only have the seed from the plant, you may have just a seedling and not the cultivar of the exact plant. If that is the case the bloom will not be the same.
QUESTION: "I have a question about the Rose of Sharon trees I bought last fall. The rabbits and other creatures have nibbled the plants, some to the ground and others to within a few inches of the original 18" plant. Will they grow from the roots? I fertilized and mulched, but I did not enclose them in wire cages. Is it too late? They haven't leafed out yet, but it is still early as I write this." - Sherlyn Hogenson
ANSWER: I guess you can understand why Elmer Fudd felt the way he did about Bugs Bunny. I believe there is a good chance that your Rose of Sharons will come back from the roots. But when they do, you might want to spray them - and anything else the rabbits are bothering - with a product called Rabbit Stopper. It works by smell and taste and can still be effective after quite a heavy rain. If you can't find it, drop me another e-mail and I'll pass on some shopping information.
QUESTION: "I have some pine trees (they are 3 yrs old) and I am wondering why the pine needles have turned a lighter green?" - Anna Steinke
ANSWER: Depending on where you are located, most pines go through this at the beginning of spring where the needles look kind of ragged, then the new spikes appear with new, fresh needles for the summer. So I wouldn't worry too much, unless the needles fail to return to their regular color by summer.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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